The rejuvenating power of white flowers

Close up of senir woman eye.

Eye contour skin is extremely fragile. It is much thinner than facial skin and the most likely to suffer damage due to different external factors (e.g. UV, pollution, stress, smoke ecc.) and continuous usage (we blink an average of 20,000 times a day).
Eye contour is the area where the first signs of aging appear. It is no coincidence that according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons upper eyelid lifting surgery is in the top four of the most performed plastic surgeries, and the first among male population. In this area common traits that reveal aging are the appearance of dark circles, puffiness, droopy eyelids and crow’s feet.
Eye´fective™ is the latest launch by Provital, it is the powerful combination of two white flowers which work together to rejuvenate the look of the eye contour area, with a focused action on the so called «Eye triangle care» effect to fight dark circles, droopy eyelids and wrinkles.
The appearance of dark circles is predominantly caused by three main factors.
Microcirculation: the leakage of blood from capillaries into interstitial spaces provokes accumulation of plasma, the main cause of puffiness, while accumulation of red blood cells in the skin area under the eyes is the main cause of dark circles (coloring).
Accumulation of melanin: local deposits of melanin in the dermis cause excessive pigmentation, which darkens the skin.
Glycation: it is the process of union between proteins and sugars that leads to a degradation of their functionality. In the skin it affects biomechanical properties (firmness, elasticity) and colour. The effects are accentuated with aging, and the result is a bluish tone under the eyes and an increase in the number of lines around the eyes.

Eye´fective™ improves the eye contour microcirculation and reduces protein glycation for a firming and brightening effect.
Droopy eyelids are the result of skin sagging due to ageing. The skin of eyelids is the thinnest in the body (often less than 1 mm thick) and does not have subcutaneous fat, it is therefore the first facial area showing signs of aging.
As we age upper eyelids sag or droop, forming a double fold which gives us a lazy and age-revealing eye contour aspect. Also, the application of makeup is harder.
Tests have shown that Eye’fective can reinforce the eye contour, lifts eyelids up and reduces the double fold.

To fight the three signs of eye contour aging Provital combined two plants with white flowers, namely hawthorn and Arabian jasmine, which work together to create a multi-functional effect on the eye contour.
Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) is native to Europe, known in Victorian times as the flower of hope. It is rich in flavonoids and traditionally used to treat circulatory problems.
Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac) is native to the South of the Hymalayas. It is called after the Persian word «yâsamin» that means «Gift of God». It is particularly rich in iridoid glycosides and flavonoids, traditionally used by its anti-inflammatory and anti-tyrosinase activities.
In vitro and in vivo tests were conducted to ascertain the activity of Eye´fective™ in reducing dark circles and droopiness of eyelids.

In vitro testing
In vitro tests were performed to measure and evaluate vascular permeability, bilirubin & iron degradation, melanin reduction, collagen I synthesis and inhibition of AGE’s products formation. In vitro testing results confirmed the ability of Eye’fective in reducing vascular permeability limiting blood leaking and compounds accumulation; it also proved to reduce accumulated bilirubin and eliminate free iron, with a visible eye contour brightening effect. It reduces melanin accumulation, providing a brighter look. It increases the collagen synthesis with a firming effect and lifting the upper eyelid. It also reduces collagen degradation for a global rejuvenating effect.

In vivo efficacy
An in vivo study was conducted with two different volunteer panels to ascertain the efficacy of Eye´fective™ in decreasing dark circles and its ability to lift eyelids. The first panel was composed of 20 female volunteers with age between 40-60 years showing dark circles. The test lasted 28 days, with measurements taken at D0, D14 and D28, comparing a placebo with a formulation containing 2% Eye´fective™. Formulations were applied on eye contour; the active ingredient was applied on one eye, the placebo on the other, twice a day.
The second panel was composed of 20 women, 40-60 years old. For 28 days, with measurements at D0, D14 and D28, the volunteers applied twice a day on one eye contour the formulation containing 2% Eye’fective and on the other eye the placebo.

Panel 1
Reduction of dark circles
To ascertain the activity of Eye´fective™ on reducing dark circles, a SpectraCam® device for skin pigment characterization was used. Two areas were defined for image analysis: one under the eye where the dark circles occur, and the other on the cheek, to measure the color contrast between the two zones. First, the amount of total hemoglobin (H) in the dark circles was measured, defined as a quantity of oxygenated hemoglobin (Ho) plus deoxygenated hemoglobin (Hd):


Oxygenated hemoglobin produces a pink tone in the skin, while deoxygenated hemoglobin produces a bluish tone.
A decrease in the contrast between the two zones analyzed confirms that the accumulation of hemoglobin has disappeared, there is less Hd and, therefore, there is a reduction in the dark circles (the under-eye area appears lighter).
According to the results, Eye´fective™ reduces dark circles by 19% in only 14 days (reaching 80% in two volunteers) (figure 1).

Figure 1

To corroborate the improvement of blood circulation and that there was no accumulation, oxygen saturation – defined as Ho/H- was determined.
Increase in oxygen saturation suggests that oxygenated hemoglobin increases in the dark circles area, and therefore circulation improves because hemoglobin is not stagnant, and the skin of the eye contour is lightened and refreshed.
Eye´fective™ increases oxygen saturation in the skin by 2% in 14 days.
Eye´fective™ improves blood circulation in the eye contour and reduces dark circles with excellent results in just 14 days.

Panel 2
Eyelid lifting effect
To measure the droopiness of the upper eyelid, high-resolution images of the open eyes were taken using a Dermatop 100 Visio-3D-Bench; the distance of the visible pretarsal skin (P) over the upper eyelid was measured to ascertain the effect of Eye´fective™: when the value of P increases then droopiness decreases with a greater elevation of the eyelids. Results confirmed that Eye´fective™ increases the distance the visible pretarsal skin (P) P by 19% in 14 days and by 27% in 28 days with respect to day 0 and the placebo.

Figure 2

Eye´fective™ lifts the eyelids in just 14 days, an effect that increases the longer the treatment is used.
Eye´fective™ upper eyelid lifting effect in just 14 days (figure 2).

Complementary anti-wrinkle activity
In addition to the expected activities, in the images taken for the different tests a very visible complementary anti-wrinkle action was also observed. Finally, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the 40 volunteers who had taken part in the in vivo study. The results showed that after 28 days there was a visible reduction in dark circles (70%) and a lifting effect (60%).
Eye´fective™ helps recovering lost firmness with an upper eyelid lifting effect and reduces dark circles for a total rejuvenating effect.
Eye´fective™ can be successfully used in the formulation of a large line of applications including eye contours, anti-age treatments, specific makeup products (e.g. concealers, highlighters), decorative make-up products (e.g. eye shadows), male cosmetics. The recommended dose is 2%.

by Monica Tramalloni and Federica Servino- Giusto Faravelli SpA