CC and DD creams: new generations of multifunctional products

itf142035After BB creams worldwide success, CC and DD creams are the new generation products unifying skin care and make-up. And the consumers request for multifunctional products continues. According to Mintel Beauty & Personal Care (the worldwide English market research company) mixologiste is the key trend set to impact global beauty consumers in the year 2014. Mixologiste aims to combine different beauty technologies from more than one category resulting in new products, packaging, marketing and merchandising. The success of hybrids such as BB creams has inspired manufacturers to explore different ways through which mix categories together to create appealing products for consumers and CC and DD creams are the ultimate market result. The new hybrids do not replace BB creams, but acquire new features to meet the market further demand.

BB creams: the advantages of multifunctional cosmetics
The one of BB creams is definitely the most relevant cosmetic industry phenomenon of the last years started in Asia and then spread worldwide. In 2012 the «Blemish Balm» creams were object of 670 thousands searches on Google and 5 thousands tweets at month in the world. This global success is due to the natural nude look that the BB creams confers while smoothing out any visible imperfection on the skin. BBs work as foundation but less drying and heavy and not as thick as regular foundation to produce a natural look without clogging pores. BBs provide multiple functions: they moisturize, cover blemishes, brighten, help prevent early signs of aging and offer sun protection. The possibility to replace a foundation, a moisturizer, an anti-aging cream, a UV-protection and even more with a single product was certainly the main reason that, in a very short time, made BB creams the most successful «all-in-one» cosmetic. Female consumers have showed to appreciate them thanks to the many advantages they offer: consumers spend less time to take care of their skin and can save money buying only one product and, not less important, they can free bathroom cabinets from the packaging invasion. BB creams formulation is reach in light emollients which make the cream spreadable and help pigments diffusion.

CC creams: an improved version of BB creams concept
CC and DD creams have been designed by cosmetic industry to add new functions to the BB creams. CC Creams, originated in Japan and developed in Korea, have, as their main target, the correction of the colour of complexion. CCs are an evolution of the original product as they combine BB creams benefits with nourishing ingredients and more effective skin coverage: redness and blemish skin are covered and what is more CCs can be used as foundation also with an enhanced skin feel and better long-term results on the skin. Another difference with BB creams is the free oil formulation, thanks to that CCs provide a fast-absorbing and lightweight texture and can be also suitable to fatty skin. Both products are enriched with sun protection factors against UVA and UVB and make skin bright and smooth. East and West market have emphasised different functions of CC creams: the East area has favoured moisturization, whitening and anti-aging functions, while sun protection, anti-aging and anti-wrinkle functions have been relevant for the West market.

DD creams: an even more evolution of BB and CC creams
DD creams stand for «Daily Defence» or «Dynamic Do-All» or «Dermatologically Defining» according to the region of the body you turn to. DD creams were initially «daily defence» products thought for the body and feet care and in this first version, UK Market launched also some self-tanning creams. Later the DDs turned into «dynamic do-all» products offering all the benefits of both BB and CC creams with an additional emphasis on anti-aging benefits (to make skin smooth and reduce fine lines) and concealing complexion imperfections. Also «dermatologically defining» creams diminish fine lines and balance uneven skin tones caused by problems such as blemishes or dark spots and also provide protection to the more delicate areas of the face.

EE creams, hair BBs, male-specific BB and CC creams
Multifunctional products success will not stop, because of a life style always more fast in the areas demanding for cosmetics, products «all in one» are increasing. According to Mintel studies, hair BB creams very soon will be on the market and EE creams are nearly ready to be shown on shop shelves. EEs will probably stand for «Elemental Emulsion» a basic cream to moisturize face and make complexion matt or will stand for «Energy Enhancer» creams a portentous night serum with moisturizing and regenerating functions for the skin. In South Korea men have already their specific BBs and CCs which are sold as the most important male coloured cosmetic products and, it is expected, these hybrids will enter very soon other Asiatic markets like the Thai one and cosmetic market is expected to be ready to face the increasing demand of men consumers for multifunctional products.

Go on with the alphabet creams
Mintel’s exclusive consumer research shows how popular are today the multifunctional products. This research highlights contemporary consumers are much more interested in multifunctional products as they offer the opportunity of saving time rather than saving money. The popularity of this new cosmetic generation is shown by US data where 70% of female consumers express great interest in multifunctional lip products, 65% show interest in multifunctional facial coverage products, for example those which combine the benefits of foundation and concealer (alphabet creams). For the 68% of US consumers the saving of time results to be a more important benefit than a reduced cost. In China 46% of female consumers is much more interested in trying new products with multifunctionality (such as 2-in-1 eye shadow and blusher), while almost 29% agree that multifunctional products (eg alphabet creams) perform as well as products designed for single purpose. The 30% of French female consumers is above all interested in moisturizing cream containing their personal scent. As to Italian female consumers 40% would like a multifunctional product to perfume skin, hair and clothes. The UK consumers show a different trend as only 29% of them appreciate products which have cosmetic benefits as well as care for the skin, such as BB cream and tinted lip balm.

Future evolution of alphabet creams
At the moment, one big limitation is that the range of colours available for BB CC and DD creams is not as wide as the one for foundations. The growth of different various ethnic groups asking for alphabet creams suitable to their type of skin is leading beauty industry to keep up their need and a new range of shades is being launched on the beauty market.

BB’s curiosity
The German dermatologist Christine. Schrammek created In the 1960’s the original «Blemish Balm». The cream was used to protect and soothe skin after surgery and, at the same time, to provide light coverage to hide marks or redness that could have been induced by operations. In the 1970’s the «blemish balm» was taken by nurses to South Korea where became very popular between the 1980’s and the 1990’s


by D.Barillaro