An award-winning manufacturer

beautiful woman hands with cream

Based near Parma, where the Italian culture of perfumes has been flourishing since the 19th century, Cosmoproject was founded in 1993 and, so far, it has been constantly growing and devoting its investments to research, development and quality: the strategy proved successful.
At the latest Cosmopack event in Bologna the Italian cosmetics manufacturer Cosmoproject was crowned with the The Wall award in the Formula Skincare category for the excellent properties of its Snow Cream product line. A most prestigious achievement, witnessing the attention that the company has always paid to quality, and that also represents a recognition of the efforts it dedicated to research and development throughout the decades. Cosmoproject, managed today by Chief Executive Officer Primo Tortini, was established in 1993 in Casale di Mezzani, near Parma, and its revenues have been growing ever since. In 2015 its activities generated a 27.8 million turnover, thanks to a 30 million pieces yearly output. But as the CEO himself considered in a recent interview, published by one of the most influent Italian newspapers, «research and development are the very backbone of the firm’s work» and allow it to always provide clients with innovative formulations. This is also the reason why Cosmoproject, which employs a workforce of 193 professionals, including 26 graduates, never refrained from investing in new facilities and products. In fact, whilst planning to enlarge its production plants, the provider has recently completed a new chemistry laboratory and is looking forward to inaugurating another microbiology lab. The nature of Cosmoproject is that of a typical third-party manufacturer, although the company is proud to serve such brands as Beauty Spa and Il Tempio della Salute in the wellness business. «My aim is to become a creative producer», is one of founder Primo Tortini’s statements, «believing our offer has always managed to address the market trends, and anticipate them». Continue reading

Antipollution skin care

SPF is no longer enough, your hair and skin need an extra layer of defence, performed by specific antipollution skin care products, a key rising trend, currently top of industry’s agenda.
Globally air quality has deteriorated seriously in the past few decades with economic development and modern industrialization. It has become the leading global risk for public health, and most megacities in developing countries are experiencing the worst air pollution, a complex mixture of particles and gas-phase pollutants arising from a myriad of sources (tab.1). Most megacities in low and middle income level countries experience extremely high levels of both visible (particulate matter) and invisible (gases) forms of air pollution, and their dwellers are at the highest risk of cardiovascular diseases, respiratory diseases and nevertheless of skin alteration, responsible of ageing, allergic-inflammatory reactions, hyper-keratinisation and cancer. Skin acts as a barrier protecting us against environmental agents and when progressively loses it’s integrity because of pollution, shows visible sign of accelerated ageing. This is why SPF is no longer enough, your hair and skin need an extra layer of defence. Cosmetic industry has been facing this new awareness formulating new specific anti-pollution skin care products, able to stay on the top of the skin where they can effectively shield pollutants without the risk of clogging pores, and the pollution particles will then fall away or be removed when you wash your face. Anti-pollution is a key rising trend, currently top of industry’s agenda, increasingly looking for novel ingredients to meet the growing consumer demand. In Asia, particularly in China, you meet the greatest opportunities for anti-pollution ingredients. USA and Europe are a step behind due to a different awareness of the issue. Although some of these new ingredients seem to be very promising, further clinical research is necessary to better understand their effects against pollution. Natural is the way to go, consumers who are interested in anti-pollution wouldn’t want ingredients that might contribute to the pollution. A combination of a variety of botanical extracts, vitamins and ingredients that creates a physical barrier, is likely to be the preferred option by consumers. Continue reading

Skin-friendly green emulsifiers

gale-cosm-2Gale & Cosm srl has studied and created the Galolive Line, four products that may be considered as the «natural offspring» of olive oil. Starting from the awareness olive phytocomplexes are known for their extraordinary eudermic properties (emollient, lenitive, sebum restructuring, photo protective, anti radical ecc.) the goal was to create emulsifiers with specific properties: Galolive Ten® (INCI: polyglyceril-3-cetyl ether olivate succinate) a non ionic sulphate free surfactant for O/W hot emulsions, Galolive O/W® (INCI: polyglyceril-4 oleyl ether olivate) and Galolive W/O® two PEG-free surfactants for O/W and W/O cold and hot processes and Galolive WS® (INCI: olive oil polyglyceril -3 esters), an innovative water soluble olive oil for toiletry applications. Galolive Ten, with its versatility and stability also at high temperature, can be used to form particularly fresh and light O/W emulsions that are pleasantly velvety to the touch and enriched with the eudermic functional properties of olive oil; also Galolive O/W can be used in fresh and light O/W emulsions, exploiting the olive oil eudermic functional, also obtaining stable emulsions through cold processes. Regarding Galolive W/O the main advantage is the versatility in supporting W/O emulsion, making possible an emulsifying process at low temperatures, obtaining water resistant products. Eventually Galolive WS owns emollient and lubricant properties, is able to reduce the irritating action of the compounds of surfactant system without modifying the foaming power of the formula.

by C.Lacapra

Three German’s innovations

evonikEvonik is an industrial German group, with more than 33,500 employees, operates in the Nutrition & Care, Resource Efficiency and Performance Materials segments. Last October the company, as a specialist group in skin, hair, and body care products, presented and revealed three innovations: a new concept for Tattoo Care, new products focused on the hairceuticals new trends, and its new interactive tool, the Sensory Kaleidoscope. The first innovation starts from the awareness that having a tattoo means to have pigments deep down on the dermis, and that today just few specific products can be found for tattooed skin: Evonik introduced new specific products to prepare and treat the tattooed skin. Regarding hairceuticals trends, Evonik presented a new line made up of six formulations including shampoo, conditioners, masks, micellar hair waters and hair tonic, in order to increase the safety and the performance of haircare products. Last but not least the company launched the Sensory Kaleidoscope, a new interactive tool that can show the effect of formulations with different emulsifiers on skinfeel, in order to develop new products with the desired sensation on the skin.

by C.Lacapra

Activator of the cutaneous microcirculation

Gorgeous woman applying lipstickNico-menthyl® (INCI Name: Menthyl nicotinate) is a new active ingredient composed of pure Menthyl Nicotinate, with no residues of other nicotinates, obtained through a new and exclusive industrial synthesis process developed over 20 years of research at Multichem  in Rozzano (Milan) – Italy
Prodotti Gianni is the exclusive distributor for Italy, France, Greece and Turkey. Nico-Menthyl® represents a new and revolutionary substance for cosmetic use that can significantly activate the cutaneous microcirculation without causing bothersome hyperaemia or irritations, on the contrary it generates a pleasant hot-cold sensation focused on the area of application. It is derived from the chemical reaction between two natural components:
– Menthol, obtained from the essential oil of mint, has a refreshing and soothing effect on the skin. It is also, as recently found by researchers at the Faculty of Medicine of the University of Padova, capable of turning the white adipose tissue into brown tissue, i.e. burning fats therein stored and consequently producing heat.
– Nicotinic acid, also known by the names of Niacin or Vitamin B3 or Vitamin PP (Pellagra-Preventing), is used by the organism for forming enzymes (NAD and NADP) that are essential for energy metabolism. These coenzymes take part in over 200 enzymatic reactions within the organism. Nicotinic acid helps break down and assimilate proteins, fats and glucosides. It plays a fundamental role in the formation of erythrocytes, in optimizing blood circulation and in providing oxygen to the cells. Its properties are used in topical applications for improving the barrier effect, oxygenating and nourishing the skin, accelerating cellular differentiation and cicatrisation, as well as for its anti-inflammatory and detoxifying effects (i.e. capable of eliminating, through the microcirculation, toxins and residues of foreign chemical compounds accumulated in the subcutaneous adipose tissue). Continue reading

From Spain to Brazil

1Granado is said to be Brazil’s oldest pharmacy brand, and is a well-known pharmacy established in 1870 by a Portuguese immigrant, a pioneer in the field of high-quality natural preparations. In 2004 Granado also purchased Phebo, one of Brazil’s most recognized perfumery and glycerin soap brand. At the end of September the Spanish family-owned company Puig held a minority stake of Granado, and up until now it can be regarded as an example of success in the Brazilian cosmetics market. This collaboration will support the growth of Granado in domestic and international markets.

by C.Lacapra

New emulsifiers for sun care products

A sun made with suncream at the shoulder (shallow dof)Gattefossé focuses his attention on the research of specialty ingredients and the development of innovative formulations for health and beauty. The company led a process of optimization of three emulsifiers, in particular for sun care applications, Emulium mellifera®, Emulfree P® and Emulfree CBG®. Starting from the awareness UV filters in sunscreen products bring greasiness and stickiness that result difficult to hide and doesn’t meet consumers compliance, Gattefosse has applied his sensory and formulation expertise to the field of sun formulations. Emulium Mellifera (INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol) is an emulsifier developed through a transformation of natural waxes to functionalize beeswax and jojoba wax with vegetable polyglycerol, and is characterized by high texture flexibility and very high compatibility with UV filters. This ingredient allows the sun care products formulation with unexpected sensoriality properties such as fine and light sensation on the skin and pleasure upon application, and allows the formulation to be adapted to different climate and seasons. Emulfree (INCI: Emulfree® P: Propylene Glycol Laurate (and) Ethylcellulose (and) Propylene Glycol Isostearate; Emulfree® CBG: Isostearyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol Cocoate (and) Ethylcellulose) are surfactant-free and PEG-free emulsifiers, especially recommended for sensitive skins able to increase viscosity and stability of formulations at high temperatures, to guarantee water resistance properties and to improve freeze/thaw resistance of emulsifier-free W/O emulsions.

by C.Lacapra


The acquisition of a tube manufacturer

Alltub is the manufacturer of collapsible aluminum tubes, owned by Aurora Capital Group and one of the major manufacturers of aluminum aerosols and cartridges. On September 1st the company has announced the acquisition of special tube manufacturer Karl Höll GmbH & Co. Karl Höll offers a wide range of products that includes major pharmaceutical and cosmetic players across Europe with a specific focus on Germany. The two merged companies are expected to extend their product portfolio across aluminum tube sectors, increasing their international influence as well. The merged company, which first and foremost will combine its fields of expertise and Karl Höll’s experience in pharmaceuticals will be able to expand its knowledge in pharmaceutical, cosmetic and laminate segments, while Karl Höll will gain access to Alltub’s global structures and benefits. The merger of the two companies will result in an annual production of nearly two billion tubes and revenue is expected to be more than € 150 million per year. The new company will welcome more than 650 customers from all over the world and will be represented by more than 1.300 employees.

by C.Lacapra

Quality + sustainability = competitiveness

girl in a bright colored paint body artEstablished in 1976, Amik Italia celebrated this year its 40th anniversary. The company, based in Milano, made its debut as a trader in chemicals and raw materials, but year after year it managed to develop a sound expertise in the cosmetics industry, becoming a global player
Formerly a trader in the arena of industrial raw materials and chemicals, the Milano-headquartered Amik Italia is today an important player in the cosmetics industry, thanks to the expertise it acquired in the fields of hair care, surfactants, anti-ageing, for instance. Founded in 1976, and therefore celebrating this year its 40th anniversary, today Amik runs five warehouses in Italy and three more in Brazil, where it opened a subsidiary in 2006. The strategy of internationalisation it underwent brought the provider to deliver its solutions in more than 20 countries worldwide. And nowadays overseas sales represent 15% of Amik’s overall annual turnover. Direct pigments and hair dyes are among the Milano-based firm’s specialties, but in addition to that, Amik Italia, who employs a global workforce of 50 people roughly, also operates as a private label and manufacturer of bleaching creams and powders. In the near-medium term, sustainability will possibly become more crucial in Amik’s business, and Carolina Gandini, cosmetic department manager, pointed out that «to promote sustainability means to take part in a most significant evolution» and that the challenge, now, is that of ensure customers a wide range of eco-friendly products building upon technologies. At the same time, to reduce the environmental impact by using cost-effective processes. Continue reading

New pigments for skin care

merckMerck is a manufacturer of cosmetics ingredients, and it boasts several products from decorative pigments to innovative solutions for skin care and protection. On September 15th the company announced a new product, the Ronastar® Royal Sparkle, a refined premium pearl luster pigment, that will take the Ronastar® range to a whole new level in terms of quality and texture: formulations like skin care emulsion and decorative products will increase their brilliance together with a special smooth skin feel. Ronastar® Royal Sparkle is the second new product from the Smart Effects innovation program; Smart Effects includes two pillars: «Effects of Light» and «Revolutionize Performance», and so these pigments show extraordinary optical effects. Before Ronastar® Royal Sparkle another pigment was introduced under the first pillar, the Timiron® Halo White, but in this case the ingredient is able to bring some enhancing benefits like stability and innovative effects in the cosmetic formulations. This new pigment is characterized by small dimensional particles, but the silver-white powder appears to be larger than it really is, due to the multidimensional reflections that guarantee exceptional sparkle, mirror effects and metallic appearance. The Global Marketing Head of Decorative Pigments at Merck has also underlined that this product is the first encapsulated pigment within the pigments portfolio of the company.

by C.Lacapra