The innovation of nanocellulose

Innovations and business opportunities were the focus of a recent visit by Evonik Chairman Klaus Engel at JeNaCell, a specialist in generating nanocellulose using biotechnology methods and has a unique production process in this field. At the BioInstrumentation Center in Jena, Engel was briefed on the company’s expanding production and the market launch of new products. JeNaCell is a spinoff venture of Friedrich Schiller University. As part of its venture capital activities, in summer last year Evonik acquired a minority share in the company, which was founded in 2012 by two chemists, Nadine Heßler and Dana Kralisch. For Evonik, the collaboration with JeNaCell offers access to an innovative material platform. Nanocellulose can serve as a carrier system for cosmetic and medical active ingredients. Evonik and JeNaCell have already initiated the first joint projects in this area. In addition, JeNaCell is working with process technology engineers from Evonik to look into ways of further expanding the scale of its nanocellulose production process. JeNaCell is currently preparing the market launch of a new product line in the area of dermatology. It is due to be launched at the end of the first quarter of 2016. The products are used to aid therapeutic measures in medical cosmetology, laser treatments, and skin sensitivities or to supplement aesthetic procedures such as exfoliation. As documented by current studies, they have a long-lasting moisturizing, cooling, and soothing effect on the skin and support the natural regeneration of sensitive skin.

Hair care innovation

3The hair care world is getting inspiration from skin care, with innovative formulas based on specialty ingredients by Prodotti Gianni SpA. A hair beauty and care ritual, where every step will be performed by a specific product, which shows the cosmetic properties of skin care trend with fluid textures like serums and spray/mists. Lightweight products are also available as silicone-free version, specific for thin hair. The company proposes a package of 16 hair products formulations classified by the following themes: Hair Regenerating Mask and Fillers, Color Ritual Liquid and Creamy Treatments, Styling & Conditioning Cream without PVP. The offer of specific rituals designed on customer needs gives value to the professional and to the hair salon. To create a tailor made product, the company proposes The Cocktailing Ritual, a hair regenerating program in 5 steps including a fluid base activated by active ingredients complex selected on customer needs. The Cocktailing Ritual program is composed by fluid base with gloss and conditioning effect plus 7 active concentrated treatments

In Venice every make-up has got its remover

BregaglioVenice doesn’t miss the X factor, there’s lots of mystery and allure in the lagoon: mansions, churches, ancient bridges and the unique «calle» (the typical narrow streets in Venice). Still, it is the Carnival that turns the Old Lady into a wild «party girl»! Get rid of the dust, then, and pay attention not to sink in her millenary scents, the «Serenissima» wants colours and foolery, but mostly unconventional beauty. Just enough time to backcomb your hair, accentuate the blush of your cheeks, wear a splendid period costume and here comes the 18th century with its magnificence. Mind the details, the secret lies in a glance, audacious and theatrical for a very special evening. Let’s disguise for one night, let’s break the rules and win any social or religious boundary. Make-up hides and reveals the inspiration of the moment….And yet, the twelve strokes will be fatal for the eyeliner and eye shadow emotions: all of a sudden your 18th century eyes will be smudged for good! What’s next then? Removing the (make-up) mask and redrawing yourself can be irritating but with a soft and soothing biphasic make-up remover you can wash away more than 300 years of history and your skin won’t even be able to notice it. Our guest star is Dermoil HDE by Bregaglio. Dermoil HDE is a highly branched purified colorless, odorless and very low viscosity hydrocarbon with a small quantity of a polar oil which enhances the excellent skin feeling.A unique combination of physical, chemical and toxicological properties which make it a very good emollient in personal-care preparations. Free from aromatics and peroxides, it’s a safe product, non-toxic, non irritant to skin and eye non sensitising and non-comedogenic.

A new ban for cosmetics tested on animals in Switzerland

The Swiss government has announced it will ban the sale of cosmetics containing ingredients newly tested on animals, bringing it closer to the existing EU ban. The government announced the proposed ordinance a motion put forward by Maya Graf, a Green Party politician and former President of the National Council of Switzerland, stating that it will ban the sales of cosmetics, cleaning and household tested on animals, following the example of the EU. Switzerland will become the 35th country to change its laws surrounding the testing of cosmetics on animals since Humane Society International launched its #BeCrueltyFree campaign in 2012. In the Swiss Federal Council’s announcement it says that the country will follow the EU cosmetics ingredient ban soon and that most companies already use other testing methods; for this reason, the country is actively involved in the study and research of alternative methods to animal testing.

by B.Briasco

Cellulite treatment from within

GelitaNew research demonstrates that oral supplementation with specific collagen peptides developed by Gelita leads to a clear improvement in the appearance of skin in women suffering from moderate cellulite. Cellulite affects approximately 85% of adult females and is characterized by puckering and dimpling, giving the skin an orange peel texture. The study results show that specific collagen peptides (VERISOL®) tackle the condition at its core and help to restore the normal structure of the dermal and subcutaneous tissue. Once again, the published data confirm the positive impact of VERISOL® on skin health and pave the way for a new therapeutic strategy for the treatment of cellulite. The new application is currently patent pending in Germany, USA, Canada, Japan, Russia, China, Thailand, Malaysia, Australia, Mexico, and Brazil. In terms of skin waviness, a statistically significant reduction of 8% on average was observed via skin surface profile measurement after 6 months of treatment. Moreover, dermal density was significantly improved compared with the placebo. After the treatment period, the skin tissue became measurably more compact, indicating a strengthening of the connective tissue. Finally, the borderline length between the dermis and the subcutis, correlated with the degree of cellulite, was notably shorter after collagen peptide supplementation. Verisol® is highly soluble and almost neutral in taste. Hence, it can easily be incorporated into various types of liquid and solid functional food applications or nutricosmetics without compromising the sensory profile — from collagen water and concentrated ready-to-consume liquid shots to tablets, capsules and flavored powder mixes. As Verisol® peptides are hydrolyzed to a specific peptide length, they are easily digestible as well as highly bioavailable. Moreover, they are free from fat, cholesterol and carbohydrates, as well as gluten, and are perfectly suited for use in non-allergenic foods.

Younger skin revealed

Beautiful Girl Touching Her FaceTenth active of the Gatuline® range, this new natural extract of Japanese cedar buds, are launched at in-cosmetics Paris in April. Gatuline® Renew targets the sign of age most difficult to hide: skin texture. It acts specifically on the problem of skin texture, smoothing, hydrating, and softening the skin, giving it a visibly younger appearance. It relaunches the cell renewal mechanism, restoring the capacity of the skin to regenerate and defend itself. Coarseness, caused by age and environmental factors (pollution, UV), is erased. Dead cells that aging skin has difficulty to eliminate are removed. A perfect, smooth skin, both to the eye and to touch, is restored. Used at only 1% in formulation, it rebuilds the epidermis and restores efficient skin barrier function. In a blind study versus placebo, panelists showed significantly higher appraisal levels for the half-face treated with the active cream – it is smoother, more radiant and look healthier. A use-test demonstrates suitability for sensitive skins. Gatuline® Renew is an extract of buds of Cryptomeria japonica, a Japanese cedar tree which grows in the clean air environment of the French Reunion Island. The buds, harvested by hand from the lower parts of the trees, are air dried and sent to Gattefossé’s production site near Lyon for extraction. These buds contain a high amount of skin-stimulating molecules including a specific diterpenoid named isopimaric acid which is a signature molecule of the plant species and the main contributor to the skin renewal efficacy of Gatuline® Renew. The composition, phytochemically highly identified, also shows the presence of a wide range of bioactive substances including polyphenols, peptides, sugars and lipidic compounds. Obtained using vegetable-derived solvents, this ECOCERT/ COSMOS approved and NPA certified ingredient can be used in natural and organic cosmetic lines. Easy to formulate, it is suitable for body and facial care products, including BB and CC creams.

Principles and principals

aperturaThe Milano-based URAI made its debut in the cosmetics market only five years ago and owes its success to the long-time experience it developed in the raw materials segment since it was established in 1948, as sales manager Pietro Patella explained in the following talk with KosWorld
URAI was founded in Milano by engineer Armando Giuliani in 1948 and manages today two main divisions. The Chemical division is focused on trading additives, pigments, resins, filters and a number of other products manufactured by leading international companies. In this area, URAI can display a technically-skilled salesforce able to cover the entire Italian market. The second business unit is devoted to Laboratory Equipment: it provides customers with exclusive tools and technologies addressed to a series of laboratory testing processes. In this case too, URAI’s technical and sales team is committed to assisting clients by offering such services as technical demonstrations of each products and software-hardware installation procedures. The Milano-based distributor has entered the cosmetics arena only five years ago, thanks to the innovative vision of Roberto Giuliani and his son Andrea, who strongly believed that, despite the economic crisis, the segment could still offer chances to succeed. URAI’s recent developments proved the Giuliani family was right, as sales manager, Pietro Patella, explained KosWorld in the following interview. Continue reading

A new packaging module, a unique tool to manage packaging data

A new module to be integrated into Coptis Lab, the software specially designed for the cosmetic industry. Anne Karagoz, formerly worked for Yves Saint Laurent and Sanofi Beauté, thus fully aware of the needs of the cosmetic industry, founded Coptis. More than 200 Cosmetic Companies have already been equipped with this software solution. Coptis Lab is the core of Coptis’ range of software, managing all phases in the development of a cosmetic formula, from the marketing brief to the regulation file. The creation of a packaging module was the next step to complete the Coptis Lab software, precisely meeting the fundamental need of the cosmetic industry to manage simultaneously packaging data along with all data required in the development of a formula, such as raw materials, regulatory, tests data etc. The main features of the packaging module are a centralized management of primary and secondary components’ information (composition, nature, origin, specifications, traces/impurities, prices and documentation etc.); the creation of Bill of Materials (BOM); a price simulations based on quantity and supplier; the possibility of following-up of tests on the finished product stability: compatibility etc. And soon when editing the product information file (PIF), the required packaging reports can be included automatically. It has an optimized efficiency: improvement of information sharing and collaboration between packaging team and formulators, secured access to data, centralized data to prevent regulatory compliance issues, time saving of more than 30%. By integrating this new packaging module, Coptis Lab becomes a powerful tool covering every aspect of R&D in the cosmetic industry.

A new license agreement for make-up App

L’Oréal Paris brand builds on a two-year relationship with digital firm Image Metrics with a new license agreement relating to the Makeup Genius augmented reality App, with plans to explore new opportunities and further connect with consumers. This App is a mirror that relies on innovative technology and it can monitor each user’s facial features and allow virtual make-up to be applied on their face. It was developed with the collaboration of L’Oréal Research and Innovation and it was important for the cosmetics maker’s «connected beauty» vision, with almost 20 million users worldwide downloading this application since they search for a trial before buying a product. It’s useful to women because they have access to the company’s portfolio of products, they can try them on, sharing them on their social networks and buying them.

by B. Briasco

A place in the sun

As the skin care and sun care industries and markets keep growing, Bregaglio’s goal is to fulfill the needs of a broadening customer base by signing partnership agreements with specialized producers, while building upon the results it achieved since it became part of the Zschimmer&Schwarz group
According to recent figures released by such companies as Transparency Market Research, the global skin care products market is expected to reach a 155.44 billion dollars value at the end of this decade, experiencing a 4.9% CAGR growth between 2015 and 2021. The Middle East will possibly emerge as the fastest growing market, with a +8.6% CAGR development rate until 2021, but analysts forecast the demand will rise in North America, Europe, Latin America and Asia too. At the same time, Euromonitor International observed that the global sun care treatments market has generated 9.4 billion dollars revenue in 2013 and witnessed an 8% growth between 2013 and 2014. These are only some of the reasons why Bregaglio, an Italian distributor and manufacturer with headquarters in Biassono, some 20 kilometers away from Milano, can be confident that its business will expand in the near future. Focused both on the domestic and international scenarios, that the 32-years old firm addresses with different and dedicated strategies, Bregaglio strongly relies on its research and development activities, in order to always offer its clients new formulations and ideas. And that’s what Manuela Bertuzzi, appointed as Managing Director, told to KosWorld in an interview. Continue reading